How Early-Stage Beauty Investors Choose Winning Brands

Key Takeaways

  • Investors in the beauty sector are focusing on brands with high margins, emotional connections, and strategic retailer relationships.
  • Companies like Elevate Beauty and Provenance are investing in brands with strong product-market fit and distribution potential.
  • Valuation exercises during a recent webinar highlighted key attributes that drive brand value in the beauty market.

The Beauty Investment Landscape

Investing in early-stage beauty brands has traditionally been seen as risky, yet the potential for high returns remains enticing for investors. Cori Aleardi, a partner at Elevate Beauty, emphasizes that forming strong relationships between brands and consumers can yield significant market share. As the beauty industry adapts to changing trends, many investors shifted focus to other sectors, but strategic specialists continue to thrive.

Investment firms like Alliance Consumer Growth and Provenance remain committed to the beauty sector. Established in 2011, Alliance Consumer Growth boasts a portfolio that includes brands such as InnBeauty Project, Harry’s, and Nudestix, while Elevate Beauty has recently backed brands like DIBS Beauty and Eighth Day. Provenance’s focus includes Makeup by Mario, a brand that gained notable traction since its launch in 2020.

Investors are drawn to beauty for various reasons, including high profit margins, emotional resonance with consumers, and lower capital investment requirements compared to other consumer categories. Julianne Kur, principal at Alliance Consumer Growth, highlights the importance of major retailers like Sephora and Ulta in promoting brands, often facilitating early success with exclusive partnerships.

Investment Criteria and Brand Evaluation

Provenance typically invests between $15 million to $40 million in brands that have generated around $20 million in revenue, allowing them to conduct thorough analyses based on demographic data. They are particularly focused on brands with diverse categories beyond just traditional makeup, including men’s grooming and sexual wellness. Early-stage brands that prove their market traction through narrow distribution channels are preferred.

Similarly, Elevate Beauty invests $5 million to $10 million generally after brands show product-market fit. Their portfolio demonstrates a preference for brands in direct-to-consumer distribution, as exemplified by DIBS Beauty, which has since expanded to Ulta.

During a recent webinar, Aleardi, Choe, and Kur participated in an exercise where they evaluated hypothetical brands—“Gorgeous Gem,” “Incredible Ingredient,” and “Famous Founder”—based on their attributes and market potential. Each brand earned a valuation based on its distribution channels, market appeal, and other critical factors.

Choe valued “Incredible Ingredient” between $5 million to $7 million, while “Famous Founder” was valued at $4 million to $5 million. Aleardi placed different numbers—valuing “Famous Founder” at $8 million to $9 million, attributing this to the challenges brands face in acquiring consumers. Kur echoed the importance of credible formulas and effective packaging for ongoing brand success.

Overall, the beauty investment landscape reflects a keen interest in brands with the potential for growth through strategic partnerships, keen market understanding, and innovative product offerings. The insights gained from evaluating these hypothetical brands may help investors make informed decisions as they navigate the evolving marketplace.

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